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Travelogue
Wandering in Provence
by Norman Bituin
Barely two weeks after the Romancing the Canadian Rockies "golfcation" with the brods, I took a 10-day solo (Sep 25-Oct 5, 2023) to the Provence region, south of France. My first stop was London, which I had visited once in 1985 with my wife Cherry on our first trip to Europe. At that time to cross by land from London to Paris was by train to Dover; the ferry to Calais; then the train to Paris. That journey took 11 hours. I have wondered how fast (2:15) and convenient it is to ride on the Eurostar train under the English Channel to Paris. I have also longed to see Stonehenge. So on the second day in the UK, I joined a full-day land tour to Stonehenge, Bath, the Cotswolds Villages and Stratford-Upon-Avon. All before Provence.
England, U.K.
London
The obligatory "courtesy call" to Buckingham Palace.
Everybody uses the Underground. It has 11 lines, 272 stations and 250 miles of track.
Aka "The Tube", Londoners slept in the subway tunnels during the German bombing raids in World War II.
Panoramic view of Palace of Westminster (or Houses of Parliament), Big Ben, River Thames and London Eye (ferris wheel).
Trafalgar Square commemorates the British naval victory in the Napoleonic Wars over France and Spain in 1805.
Piccadily Circus is London's equivalent of NYC Times Square.
Jollibee has established "Chickenjoy" in Piccadily Circus.
Dancing in the streets with the 1893 statue of Eros as a hangout landmark.
Stonehenge
From the Visitor Center dropoff, one may walk (about 2 kms.) or take the free shuttle to the Stones.
The whole monument is aligned towards the sunrise on the summer solstice. It consists of vertical sarsen standing stones,
each around 13 feet high and 7 feet wide, and weighing around 25 tons and topped by connecting horizontal lintel stones.
Archaeologists believe that Stonehenge was constructed around 3000 BC to 2000 BC and was used as a burial site and for
ceremonial purposes. Some of
its builders may have come from places outside of England, such as Wales or the
Mediterranean.
Stonehenge is located on the Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire, England, approximately 87 miles from Central London.
Bath
Bath, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is named for and known for its Roman-built bath and the Bath Abbey.
The city became a spa in 60 AD when the Romans built baths and a temple in the valley of the River Avon.
[No time to visit inside the Roman Bath. This is an online picture from visitbath.co.uk.]
Bath Abbey was founded in the 7th century and became a religious center.
Bath has Georgian architectural-type structures and was the home of author Jane Austen.
Did they serve bacon and eggs for breakfast in 1680?
The Parade Garden and the historic Kennet and Avon canals on the iconic River Avon.
Cotswold Villages
In North Yorkshire, Cotswolds Villages are attractive honey-colored houses, a 15th century church and open pasteur land.
Stratford-Upon-Avon
William Shakespeare was born in this house on Henley Street in Stratford-upon-Avon.
Shakespeare's baptism is recorded in the Parish Register at Holy Trinity Church on April 26, 1564.
King Edward VI School, still in use today, is the grammar school that Shakespeare attended.
This is a live theatre where the schoolmaster explains the class curriculum where Shakespeare wrote his first sonnets.
Statues of "The Bard of Avon", Shakespeare, and the jester from his comedy play "As You Like It".
Provence, France
Avignon
Took the Eurostar train under the English Channel from London to Paris; then the TGV high-speed to Avignon.
Avignon was my base for 4 days in exploring the small towns in Provence. I did not consider renting a car as I was solo
and didn't want the hassle/danger of driving and looking for a parking space in town. I took the local bus, cheap 2-3 euros.
Central Avignon pedestrian-only street cafes and Plaza de l'Horloge restaurants and shops near the Palace of the Pope square.
The Avignon Papacy was from 1309 to 1376 during which seven successive popes resided in Avignon rather than in Rome.
Pope Clement V moved the papal capital to Avignon in
1309. Pope
Gregory XI returned to Rome in 1376.
I attended Sunday mass, in French, at the Palace of the Pope Church.
The Pont Saint-Bénézet, a medieval wooden bridge spanning the Rhone River built in 1185, was rebuilt in 1234 with 22 stone arches.
The bridge was abandoned in the mid-17th century as the arches tended to collapse each time the Rhone flooded.
The Musee de Petit Palais in a 14th century building has a collection of Renaissance paintings, highlight is Botticelli.
Sandro Botticelli (1445-1510) - "Venus aux trois putti"
Sandro Botticelli (1445-1510) - "Noli me tangere"
Sandro Botticelli (1445-1510) - "La Vierge et l'Enfant" and "La Vierge et l'Enfant avec des anges"
Vers-Pont-du-Gard
Pont-du-Gard is a Roman aqueduct bridge built about 19 BC to carry water over 50 kms. to the city of Nîmes over the Gard River near the town of
Vers-Pont-du-Gard. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, at 49 meters tall it is the highest Roman aqueduct. It was constructed without mortar.
Nimes
The Arena of Nîmes, a double-tiered amphitheater built arouind 70 AD, is still in use for concerts and bullfights.
Esplanade Charles-de-Gaulle
TGIF - Sept. 29, Friday 4 PM Lycee Daudet HS kids get off for the weekend.
Maisson Carree, a Roman temple built in 2 AD, is presently a museum and used as a cinema to show film on Nimes history.
The word "denim" for jeans is derived from the twill weave fabric from Nimes' textile industry called "serge de Nimes".
Saint-Remy-de-Provence
In May 1889, Dutch painter Vincent van Gogh spent a year in an asylum in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. He made 150 paintings,
including famed "Starry Night" and this one I saw unceremoniously tacked on a street wall, "Green Wheat Field with Cypress".
A quiet, early Saturday morning in town with tourists not yet up and about.
Amused to see a beautifully restored 40's Ford truck parked in a French neighborhood.
Arles
Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles is a non-profit foundation dedicated to the work and legacy of Vincent van Gogh.
Les epits vers (1888) and Self portrait of Van Gogh (1889)
Vincent van Gogh was admitted in the 17th century converted hospital Hotel-Dieu after he cut his left earlobe in 1888.
The garden served as an inspiration for the Dutch artist who depicted the building in several of his paintings.
"Cafe Terrace at Night", a colorful view from the Place du Forum in Arles, is an oil
painting by Vincent van Gogh in Sept. 1888 with an estimated value of $194 million.
Above is a fridge magnet I bought for 4 euros. Guess where it's made. PRC, of course.
Wandering around the streets in Arles where Vincent van Gogh lived in 1888 for a year and likely walked around.
Arles Amphitheatre was built in 90 AD for gladiatorial battles, chariot races and theatrical performances.
The amphitheatre is used today for bullfighting and musical concerts.
Aix-de-Provence
Aix-de-Provence Cathedral started constuction in the 12th century. The last statues were installed in 1513.
Outdoor cafes and produce stands at the plaza.
The house of Paul Cezanne, a leading impressionist artist from Aix-de Provence (born 1839, died 1906).
Unfortunately, his house and studio Atelier Cezanne is closed on Mondays, the day I visited.
Two of Cezanne's famous paintings: The Card Players series (1894-1895) and The Bathers (1905).
Statue of Paul Cezanne at Place de la Rotonde.
Marseille
Founded in 600 BC by Greek settlers, Marseille is the oldest city and is the second largest in France after Paris.
At its heart is the Vieux-Port (Old Port), where fishmongers sell their catch along the boat-lined quay.
Enjoying a traditional seafood platter of mussels, shrimp, herring and calamari at the Old Port.
Noailles is a bustling neighborhood with a chaotic daily market, Marché des Capucins, selling olives, dried fruit and spices.
Le Panier, The Old Quarter, dates back to 600 BC when the ancient Greeks settled in these parts.
It has been the center of immigrants to the city, many from North Africa, creating a "colorful" multicultural community.
Le Panier is the oldest district in Marseille and was originally called Massala.
I was surprised (and happy) to see "inihaw na mais" from a charcoal grill by these Algerian immigrants. I munched on one.
The tram from the Old Port takes visitors to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde standing 154 meters high on a hilltop. Notre-Dame is the
emblem of Marseille. A large Virgin Mary, “la Bonne Mère” (the Good Mother), sits atop the bell tower keeping watch over the sailors.
The hill of Garde and the Basilica offers a 360 degrees
view of the city, the islands, and the Mediterranean Sea.
A monument dedicated to the sailors and fishermen lost at sea overlooks the city.
In 1214, a priest named Pierre built a small chapel and a sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary on-site.
Being too small for pilgrims, the first stone of the Basilica was laid in September 1853 and the consecration was celebrated in June 1864.
Cannes
From my base in Marseille, I took the earliest train at 5:30 AM to walk around the 3 cities in one day. It was a 3-hour trip one way.
In the French Riviera, Palais des Festivals holds the prestigious Cannes Film Festival in May.
Boulevard de la Croisette with its upscale stores, hotels and restaurants.
A Kabayan store in Cannes! At last I was going to have a Pinoy lunch, but it was still closed.
Nice
The SNCF train station and Office of Tourism in Nice.
Fact: Nice was ceded from the Kingdom of Sardinia to France by the Treaty of Turin in 1860.
The original church on site was built in 1246. The Basilique-Cathedrale Sainte-Marie de Nice was consecrated in 1699.
Old Town Nice
Promenade des Anglais
Monaco
Monaco, the municipality and playground of the rich and famous, is the world's 2nd-smallest nation spanning just 200 hectares.
Monte Carlo Casino was built in 1863.
A big concave mirror in front of and reflecting the Monte Carlo Casino.
The parked cars of the Monte Carlo Casino players and guests.
Au revoir!